Shimoga or Shivamogga – Surrounded by Mountains and Forests, where Rivers, Lakes and Waterfalls abound!

By Lakshmi Sharath

Travelling in rustic India can be described in just one word – amazing. Although it may sound as another clichéd expression, the journey is far more enriching. We are on our way to Shimoga, now called Shivamogga. Located in Malenadu or the hilly regions of Karnataka, Shimoga is one of the key districts surrounded by mountains and forests, where rivers, lakes and waterfalls abound. Flanked by the Sahyadri mountains of the Western Ghats and irrigated by rivers Tunga, Bhadra , Sharavathi  among others,  Shimoga is one of the most green regions. In fact the Tunga and the Bhadra meet here near Shimoga town to form Tungabhadra.  The dams built on these rivers have created water bodies which have been developed into eco tourism. The dense forests here hide many a wild creature from the forest. Shimoga or Shivamogga, the town, named after Lord Shiva’s face is the headquarters located on the banks of the river Tunga .

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There is something for everybody in Shimoga – be it waterfalls or wildlife. If waterfalls fascinate you, then Jog falls is a must on your itinerary. At 830 feet, Jog falls also known as Gersoppa falls is the highest waterfalls in India. We walked right to the edge as the river Sharavati falls in four separate tracks –Raja, Rani, Roarer and Rocket. The roaring waters welcomed us as the spray hit us while be bathed in the beauty of the waterfalls. The falls can get very crowded post the monsoons and can be quite dangerous as well when it gets slippery. But when the water in the close by Lingamukki dam reduces before the monsoons, the falls just become a trickle.

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Someone told me at the falls that there was a lion safari in Shimoga. There have been innumerable tiger sanctuaries out here, but this was the first time I had heard of lions in Karnataka .So here I was, heading towards Tyarekoppa, a 200 hectares of dense jungle. The forest department organizes safaris here where one can sight lions, tigers, leopards ,bears , deer that it looks like being amidst an entire Jungle book.

The Bhadra wildlife sanctuary is another haven for wildlife lovers. The Lakkavalli dam across the Bhadra river offers breathtaking views in Shimoga. Home to the river terns and several water birds, there are quite a few resorts around here which are developing this area into wildlife and eco tourism. Gudavi bird sanctuary is another place sought after by birders. The elephant training camp is another attraction near Gajanur dam.

credit: Subharnab

Adventure tourism has also brought in several tourists here as the backwaters of the Sharavati near sagar. Honnemaradu or the golden lake as it is called is nestled right in the middle of the forests and is buzzing with watersports like canoeing, kayaking, wind rafting. Camping facilities are available as well. Trekkers often go up the Kodachadri hill that overlooks the Western Ghats.

Shimoga is also a destination for those into culture, heritage and spiritual fervor.  The temple town of Sringeri is hardly a couple of hours from here at a distance of 100 kms while Kollur another destination for pilgrims is closer to the Kodachadri hill. Udupi, Dharmasthala, Subramanya are some of the pilgrim towns that can be accessed from here easily. The tropical rain forest of Agumbe offers great sunset views. Today, the forests here are being researched for cobras and other snakes. 

There are many other monuments in Bhadravathi, Nagara,  Mrugavadhe, Sigandhooru, Tirthahalli, Ikkeri, Keladi, are some of the towns and districts where one can find several temples, palaces, forts from the Hoysala and Naik eras. Notable among them  are the rock cut Aghoreshwara temple at Ikkeri, the temples at Keladi , the 13th century Lakshmi Narasimha temple built by the Hoysalas in Bhadravathi and the Shivappa Nayak palace near Shimoga town.

How to Reach Shimoga

Shimoga the town is about 275 kms from Bangalore and is well connected by road and rail. It is also very accessible from Mangalore, Hassan, Chikmagalur, Hubli among other towns.  As it forms a part of Malenadu, it is close to most of the main districts of Karnataka. There are buses that connect to most parts of Shimoga. The accommodation is usually three star although there are plenty of private resorts in these areas.

Nagarhole / Rajiv Gandhi National Park, Karnataka

By Lakshmi Sharath

The afternoon sun is at its best at Mysore. We had finished the palace circuit and had the evening free and was wondering if we could take off to Coorg.  A friend suggested Kabini, the tributary of the River Cauvery which had formed into a beautiful backwaters enticing wildlife and wildlife lovers. Another suggestion said we could go to Bandipur, a wildlife sanctuary. We however decided on the third option – Nagarhole or Rajiv Gandhi National Park as it is known as today.

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We drove down to Hunsur as the scenery changed drastically. A green fabric veiled our eyes as the winding roads got narrower. The weather changed from a hot dry afternoon to being cool and pleasant. The rain gods smiled at us and welcomed us with a drizzle. A peacock appeared from nowhere and strutted its way into the greenery. We were in Nagarhole known for its streams snaking its way through the jungle. Naga means snake and hole refers to streams and hence the name to this wildlife park which is part of the Nilgiris Biosphere Reserve.

Along with Bandipur , Mudhumalai and Wayanad wildlife sanctuaries, which are part of the 3 states of Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Kerala, Nagarhole is home to all the tiger, elephant, leopards, wild dogs and other mammals besides several varieties of birds and reptiles. Spread across Coorg and Mysore districts, the river Kabini flows here dividing the Nagarhole and Bandipur forests. The backwaters of Kabini are thronged by elephants, mainly in summer when the entire water body is also sought after by them. Most of them even swim across the Nagarhole side to Bandipur or vice versa during the period

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The wildlife sanctuary spread itself in front of our eyes as we were on the lookout for the wild animals. Our safari guide told us that a pack of wild dogs or dholes were seen moving around a small lake. We went there to find a herd of elephants quenching their thirst. We saw pugmarks of a tigress and as we drove by, a langur called out. A herd of deer darted into the bushes as my guide interpreted it as a warning call. There could be a tigress, said my guide as we waited with bated breath. Nothing happened in the next few minutes, except a few hill mynahs who ripped the silence apart with their screeches.

We continued and did some more birding. The crested serpent eagle was on its perch as we heard the call of the Malabar whistling thrush. The scarlet minivet was a brilliant red in the green leaves as the female yellow bird hovered around the male. We spotted the common iora as well besides the purple rumped sunbird. The bulbuls and babblers were everywhere. The water birds were largely herons and egrets besides cormorants and a variety of ducks.

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It was getting a bit dark as we decided to spend the night in Kutta. Enroute we heard of a lone tusker which had been rather destructive a few days ago. It was ironic to hear that the elephants were creating panic as it’s probably they are panicking because of human encroachment. We are probably trespassing into their territory than it is otherwise.

As morning dawned, we drove over to Irpu falls, which was not too far away from Kutta, but the roads made us feel that it was one of the longest stretches. We walked across paddy fields and hiked a bit until we heard the roar of the falls. Located in the Brahmagiri Range, these falls are also known as the Lakshmana Tirtha Falls, the source of the river with the same name. As the name goes, this story dates back to the Ramayan days. While Rama and Lakshman were looking for Sita in the hills, Rama was thirsty. Lakshmana in his quest to get his elder brother water shot an arrow into the hills and the river is said to have originated. A famous Siva temple, the Rameshwara Temple is situated on the banks of the Lakshmana Tirtha River, en route to the Falls. We spent a few hours here as locals warned us about elephants and then continued our journey into Coorg

How to Reach Nagarhole

Nagarhole is barely 100 kms from Mysore and it’s a haven for wildlife lovers. There are buses that lead to the wildlife sanctuary and accommodation is available around it and in Kutta.

Bangalore / Bengaluru: IT Capital of India

Call it the Garden City or the IT capital, Bangalore or Bengaluru as it is called today has always been the city of sobriquets. Ask any old timer today to conjure up an image of the city and pat comes the reply- quiet roads, cool climate, green trees  and colorful gardens with lakes and parks. Once upon a time it was dubbed to be the pensioner’s paradise. Today Bangalore, one of fastest growing metros has lost most of its charm to development – the climate is warm, the trees are gone and the roads are constantly clogged with never ending traffic. And yet Bangalore remains the favourite of many people who throng to this capital city of Karnataka.

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Bangalore has indeed come a long way from the Bendekaluru, the mythical city of the boiled beans. Legends say a Hoysala king, presumably Veera Ballalla II from the Malenadu-Mysore region was lost in a forest after fighting in a war. One version says it was after a hunting expedition. Nevertheless the story goes that the king who was offered a plate of boiled beans from an old lady. He named the city after the boiled beans, known as Benda kalu and the town, Bendekaluru or the town of boiled beans became Bangalore.

Nevertheless, historically Kempe Gowda, the chieftain of the Vijay Nagar empire from Yelahanka built a fort here and brought it under his control in the 16^th century. Even today, the four towers  of Kempe Gowda which marked the original boundary of Bangalore – near Mekhri Circle, inside Lalbagh, Ulsoor Lake and Kempambudhi lake. He went on to developing the old Bangalore with its lakes and markets , which are slowly disappearing today. Very little of Kempe Gowda’s Bangalore is left today. When the British ruled India, they established the Cantonment here and the city became the garden city as well. Today however the trees are giving way to wider roads as Bangalore the sleepy town has suddenly become a very bustling town.

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Bangalore still offers a lot for the average tourist. History, arts, museums, parks, lakes, malls and multiplexes – not to mention vibrant events. For the foodie, there is everything from old dosa joints to international food chains to specialty restaurant. The food gully in VV Puram, an old suburb of Bangalore is known for its delectable street food.

What Bangalore lacks in terms of a beach is compensated by lakes and parks. Ulsoor lake, sankey lake, hebbal lake are some of the surviving water bodies while tourists and locals still throng to Cubbon park and Lalbagh, some of the oldest parks of Bangalore. The Flower festival in lalbagh is not to be missed at all where the city comes alive in such vibrant colours

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Temples, churches , mosques and monuments – Bangalore has them all. Be it the Kadu malleshwara temple which lent Malleshwaram, another suburb its name or the Bull Temple, Bangalore has several old temples. Tipu’s palace and fort, the Bangalore palace, Vidhan Soudha, Mayo Hall, Attara Kutcheri or the High Court, St. Patrick’s church, Mary’s basilica are some of the landmarks of Bangalore today. The museums are Bangalore museum, Visvesaraya Industrial and technological museum, Venkatappa art gallery, HAL Aerospace museum among others

Shopping is one of the main activities in Bangalore. The Commercial Street and Brigade Road are still thronged by people, while the old markets continue to lure crowds with their charm. Today malls and multiplexes have become huge tourist attractions as big brands have set up shop here.

The Bannarghatta national park is one of its kind which is a natural reserve within the city that offers wildlife sightings including tiger and lion safaris. Located on the fringe of Bangalore is also Nandi Hills, a fortress and the Nandi temple at its base. The old banyan tree or the Dodda Alada Mara is another picnic spot enroute to Mysore from Bangalore. The road to Mysore is filled with temples, dams, reservoirs, forests, bird sanctuaries, heritage towns and ancient capitals. The most well known ones are Srirangapatna, Talakadu, Ranganatittu, Shivasamudram falls, Melkote, Brindavan Gardens , Somnathpur, Mekedaatu, Ramanagara, kanva reservoir among others

How to Reach Bangalore

Bangalore is well connected with all metros and important cities in India as well as abroad. There is an international airport as well. The road and rail network connects the city with all key towns within Karnataka as well as other states in India.

Chikmagalur – The coffee country of Karnataka

By Lakshmi Sharath

We were in a coffee estate in Chikmagalur when we heard this story. A pilgrim called Baba Budan also known as Hazarat Shah Janab Allah Magatabi smuggled seven seeds of coffee in his tunic while he was on a pilgrimage from Mecca. The saint sowed the seeds in his garden near a cave in Chandragiri in the Chandra Drona hills of the puranic age. They are now popularly known as Baba Budan Hills in Chikmagalur district and there is a shrine for this seer sought by the pilgrims. These seven seeds went on a journey of their own across centuries and Karnataka earned the sobriquet coffee country.

credit: ManojVasanth

We had planned a holiday in this district known for its hill stations, forests, wildlife, spicy plantations besides coffee, waterfalls, ancient temples our first halt is the town Chikmagalur, the district headquarters.  Located on the foothills of the Mullayanagiri range of the Western Ghats, Chikmagalur in Kannada means the town of the younger sister. Legend has it the chieftain, Rukmangada, the legendary chief of Sakkaraypatna who was ruling it, gave it away as dowry to his younger daughter. As you would have guessed, there is a town of the older daughter as well – Hiremagalur located 5 kms away.

We had no agenda, but just to take in the beauty of the place. Coffee plantations gave us company as the Western Ghats were carpeted by a green fabric. We went up to base camp of the Mullayangiri, the highest peak of the Baba Budan Hills in Western Ghats. Many trekkers were seen making their way up hill to the peak. We were however not in a mood for a trek, as we had wanted a leisurely holiday.

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We decided to drive to Kemmangudi, a hill station. We also had a choice of going up to Kudremukh, essentially an iron ore town which is also another hill station with a wild life national park thrown in as well. Kemmangudi however took precedence over Kudremukh as it was a royal retreat, an erstwhile summer retreat of Krishnaraja wodeyar 1V of Mysore. Chikmagalur in those days was very much a part of the Mysore state. We were however not ready for this beauty. Surrounded by the Baba Budan Giri range of mountains, the mist came towards us. We decided to stop here for the night, taking small hikes to scenic points and visiting the waterfalls – Hebbe and Kallathi.

We were drawn towards wildlife and we went towards Bhadra wildlife sanctuary, Hemmed in by The Mullaianagiri, Hebbegiri, Gangegiri and Babaudangiri hills with the tributaries of Bhadra watering it, the sanctuary is a haven for the big and small mammals,  reptiles and snakes, birds and butterflies. We spotted quite a few of the latter along with gaurs and spotted deer. The big cats however eluded us.

credit: ManojVasanth

A trip to Chikmagalur is not complete if I do not talk about the heritage of this district. Besides the bountiful natural heritage, Chikmagalur which is a part of Karnataka’s Malenadu is the birthplace of the Malenadu chiefs who went on to form a dynasty called the Hoysala way back in the 11^th century. A small hamlet called Angadi or Sosevur as it was known as is said to be the origin of the Hoysalas whose 10th century temples lie deep inside a coffee plantation in Angadi.

According to a legend, a saint and his student Sala were in a temple in Angadi where a tiger attacked him. Listening to his guru who said ““Poy Sala “or Strike Sala, the student went on to kill the tiger. Locals believe that the temple exists in Angadi today along with the ruins, while the myth went on to being immortalized by the sculptures in various monuments as it became the Hoysala emblem Besides the temples at Angadi, there are several others such as Belavadi and Amruthapura which still are a testimony to the architectural skills of the sculptors of the bygone era.

The monsoons had just started as there was lush greenery around while we drove back. We wanted more of Chikmagalur and we decided to come back here again for the next vacation

How to Reach Chikmagalur

At a distance of 240 kms from Bangalore, Chikmagalur is closer to Hassan at 60 kms from there and 160 kms from Mangalore. The closest airport is of course at Mangalore, while Kadur at 40 kms is the closest rail head.  There are plenty of home stays and smaller budget hotels along with luxury resorts as well.